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Car (tires pressure, no starting most frequent causes), scratch on paint - bicycle (chain out the gear, puncture, pump, hold upright) |
Inflating the tires without dirtying the fingers. I use a stopper of cyano adhesive “yellow, long and widened”. Description can enable you to find a suitable model. If you do not find it, use a staight tube rigid or flexible, of a diameter which allows the black cap screwed on the valve of the tire to wedge itself a little inside. Keep it in your car. To unscrew the black cap, force the black cap inside the adhésive stopper or your tube and unscrew the cap; leave the cap inside. Once finished, screw up and pull out your stopper or tubes to go to the other wheel. The cap is better wedged in a conical tube which will accept any type of caps, and thus any models of wheels. The catch of your fingers on your stopper/tube will be better while inserting around, side fingers, a flexible plastic tube (transparent vinyl for example), in order to improve adherence to your fingers. For the tube, think for example to the caps of big plastic pens that, generally, you drop in the dustbin.
Starting ignition. Car batteries frequently "break down" at the beginning
of the winter or at the contrary during the heatwaves. You were driving
all the day long, starting several times without any problem and the
next morning :
1/
the starter turns and drives slowly the
engine which does not start, this until the final
rotation of the engine, a minute later : wait 10 mn at least
and start again while pressing strongly on the accelerator.
If the starter turns again, but without success, the battery
is probably still good and you can start with a cord and
another car. And reload with a charger.
2/
there is only a
"cloc" when you turn the ignition key and nothing rotate :
not even a small "râ râ" ! the battery is
probably out and it should be replaced (an element is
getting itself in short cut when you are starting, although
the headlights and the horn still function. You can
nevertheless start with a cord and another car, which must
accelerate, by connecting the two batteries
(*).
Above all, do not stop the
engine whatever occurs, even after having driving a long
time !! Go back home or reach the nearest
garage (that arrived to me and I also repaired
several people thus).
(*) Attention, danger : except particular note,
connect initially the two clamps of the same cord to each
terminal fixed at the mass, i.e. those which have a large
short wire fixed near on the sheet iron or another metal
part ; then connect the red clamp of the second cord (+)
one, by fixing it on a red (+) battery terminal, then on the
other; I personally give before a "light touch" to check, by
holding me aside, head turned.
Frequent
causes of no starting
;
engine drowned after several
attempts at starting: it is necessary then to wait a few
minutes and to accelerate completely until starting (to push
back the choke if it is manual); I thus repaired my
neighbours and well of others. Difficult starting: if the
battery is good, check the spacing of the candles (it is the
principal cause at the entry of the winter, a beautiful
morning, if one can say!) The candles are in general easy
access and it is enough to a spark plug wrench. Not need for
mechanic who will replace them automatically and to perhaps
count other expenses to you. Without feeler gauge (gauges)
use a bank card which will have to slip freely but a little
tight all the same between the electrodes. Starting the hot
engine: it is preferable to accelerate a little (especially
not to put a choke if it is manual). Starting in cold
weather (including winter sports...): if you have a manual
choke, draw it the day before to close the carburettor. It
is also advised "to revive" a little
the battery by lighting the headlights a few minutes before
turning the key (as for a too cold or "tired" pile that one
places under the armpit (*)); disconnect before turning the
key because that releases the engine of limps
speeds.
Lastly, if the weather is very cold, do not
remove snow the day before departure, at least on the engine
cowling and around, because it insulated from the cold of
the night. (*) In Canada, Russia... it is common to see
people mounting the battery on their premises for the night;
in Norway, there are electrical connectors to heat the
engine! (see funny).
Painting ;
car
stripes, scraches.
On can find some small
bottles with a colour paint that matches the right one. These small
bottles are generally sold by the contructor itseIt. The marks won't
never totally desappear but it is going to be better than a white line
or bump, that risks to be damaged by the rust. About fine stripes, it
is impossible to put the paint inside the scracth, but
with my finding,
one can avoid making a too large line and it is very precise. What's more, the paint don't dry
and keep fresh because there no more brush but a fine stylet. I just
made it on my own car. All you need is not shivering too much !
Puncture.
There are bombs that both
inflate and seal, but it don't
works sometimes good enough, so it is useful to
also have a repair kit (wrenches, glue and patches).
Finally, it could be better and safer
to put a new inner tube (tucked
to the frame or under the seat).
The dismantling the rear wheel
is much easier and cleaner with my tool
for set or take off the chain.
Pump cycling.
Best choice if you are not a
big beefy with huge biceps: better is
long
with
a small diameter
than short with a large
diameter (the effort is multiplied). Among those with a small diameter, the best is undoubtedly this with a
double effect.
Fit the handlebar.
A bike stand is not enough to keep up with security, because the
handlebars can be rotated, which he does often, causing the bike to the
inexorable fall, a certain fall if a load is placed in a basket on the
handlebars. In any case, we should be able to block the handlebars,
often slightly to improve balance. Here is a solution not very elegant
but effective, which can be made more discreet. Here it is clearly
visible.
Chain jumping out the gear.
It is not easy to put the chain up the
gear and it is very unpleasant. At least, we get some bad black grease
on hands. I very find an
< >
effectively
way to avoiding that. The instrument
is to be placed in the bag, with the minimum repairs (keys, glue and
patches), not to mention a small cloth ! Useful at home to
any fixing on the rear wheel. The instrument is very useful in case of
rear puncture, if we have to remove the wheel.
Here is a small bicycle pump model that you wouldn't probably
bought ! In fact, it is extraordinary because it is double acting
and that changes everything ! rapid, non-tiring because of small
diameter and acting as drawing, which rests the biceps, it fits in the
bag or basket of the bike. I have however added a fitting tube because
the quick
coupling direct to the valve is not always practical and there was no
opportunity to inflate the normal valves (valves only type "car" for
ATVs ), fot I need to inflate both. Here is the brand name "microquicker",
made in Sweden. Length 20 cm,
diameter
16 cm. A jewel.
Futility?
To hear backwards while
cycling. Practically, one use two plastic plates that are attached in
front of the ears (and not behind) for example on the branch of
glasses, or other means. We are thenable to hear what happens behind
(cars) or the pal that follows you !
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