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No glue hold on greasy plastics (kind "Tuperwa..".
the stopper of a tube can't be unscrewed, put it under very warm water.
Cleaning the glue Fresh Cyano : use a special thinner (ceton kind) ; Epoxy (araldite...) on the hands : use a liquid detergent for washing machine (pure or with a little water). Neoprene : paint thinner (white spirit).
Preservation of adhesives, like "cyano
Caution.
remember that a good preliminary cleaning is essential (clean very well both surfaces and degrease them with a not
fat product like alcohol or substitute of trichlorethylene); the trichlorethylene is very aggressive for hands and also dissolves irremediably certain hard plastics). Check out to see if both
surfaces must be coated and think of the time of drying..
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Ungluing labels.
The adhesives of labels are often adhesives you can't remove with water. Making soaking hours and hours does not générally succeed.
An effective way I was told is to use an hair dryer. I succeed with a powerhull one. It is finally a good way.
New possibility, seductive, Ungluing tapestry. Paste for wallpaper dissolves easily with water, but with plasticized ones, waterproof, "striping” is initially mandatory, i.e. skinning them with a dented with or lacerating them ; much of them are now stripables, i.e. that the first plasticized layer is torn off easily in large stripes. One wets afterwards. To wet, a reader said to me having used “a pulverizer of garden" but you can think to a smaller size for flowers. By the way, a big sized sponge will make the deal. The insulating sheets like “dépron” are sometimes stuck with an adhesive neoprene kind. Tear off the sheets as well as possible and finish like below. Removing the rest of adhesives fitteds carpet. This question is often asked to me about the fitteds carpet bond on wooden floors, staircases or tilings, with adhesive bands face or standard neopren glue. I do not have a miracle solution; I recommend to scrape the remainders of thick adhesive with a scraper (steel blade) which one can fix at the end of a handle of vacuum cleaner if one can, in order to relieve the strain. A strong kitchen knife (known as butcher knife) well sharpened and held with two hands, holded in skew, can make the deal. One after tries with detergents, thinners, terpentine or the product to unplug the sinks, containing caustic soda, or directly caustic soda ; mainly on tiling ; but prudence with the wooden floor if you want to rehabilitate it. It could be spoiled; Always try on a reduce surface. Removing a protective paper strip for painting. The rolls of paper used for protecting a side that does not have to be painted, can have two defects: they do not hold or hold too much and one cannot any more remove them, after having waited too much. A reader I dont remember her name said to me that she had used a Scotch tape in replacement, but which it had melted a little with thepaint or was covered with it. She succeeded in removing it with a burner (powerful hair dryer). An idea for adhesives stripes that do not want any more to be removed, once the paint well dried, along with he necessary precautions for this kind of machine. |
Two big drops of glue : left hand up, polyurethane (for wood);
right hand bottom, vinylique white (for wood)..
The most round, bottom right hand, is going to flatter. |
The same 24 hours later : the first has turned into a foam very quickly ; rather hard on the surface but not really inside (it is a foam). The second has
very slowly collapsed in a flat film, totally transparent (rather hard and relatively supple).
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The two components epoxy glue also allow to bond, repair and reinforce fabric, canvas and leather . We can reinforce a hole. This glue keep a certain flexibilty and won't break the material. Making a strap or putting a buckle to a belt is part of that opportunity, but also to put a patch of fabric in the purpose to sew a button torn off at the waist of a trouser. The metal epoxy adhesive paste can also stiffen, coat or make new broken parts (metal epoxy Scotch for cars).
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The most used strong glues.
The "cyano" glue, thin or thick is somehow the best for small repairs ; stick especially the fingers and clothes. Be very, very careful to your eyes ! it can sprinkle at the opening. The nozzle is always stopped and it is necessary to immediately well capping it (use a pin, a miniature drill or best, a large model barbed broach of dentist (I have some, it is necessary to ask him for). Bond very well the rubber (organic like the fingers), some plastics, well degreased smooth metal, belts at end, rubber rings of chains of binoculars/glasses. Backlash, the cyano makes them breakable (did you experience it on a fabric?, It is out !!. Always have some at home. Remember the best is the most fluid and fastest : the true one, the green one, infiltrate between the tightened parts, like a broken earthenware cup. Preserve in the refrigerator, the best being in the congelator, preferably inside a closed bag of sealed box.
Cyano glue more fluid ? heat it a few seconds with an hair dryer or in front of an halogen lamp.
Glue with two componants (epoxy).
The queen of the strong glue (kind of Araldite). A desk leg clamped strongly during the glue hardening never fails in thirty years.
For hard wood of medium size, like a table foot, or when the adhesive must be thin.
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The epoxy can fill up relatively large pieces of wood and be planed.
This photo shows chips from the most common epoxy "Araldite" glue. The glue was laid in a thick layer (almost half a
centimeter) by 30 cm long and 4 cm wide to level a hollow of wood, I planed
the glue the third day to get the right level. I had never tried before.
The "neoprene" adhesives (the shoemaker glue) ; can stick a lot of things, like soles of shoes, laminated, but also wood, hooks whose adhesive fails (the cyano is well also in this case, also superpower Pattex), but they are are thick, not very powerful on a small surface and sensitive to the detergents and thinners ; they can dissolve with the time, but in a good condition, they will hold several tens of years (look at your formica kitchen worktboard. Exist in spray (3M brand, " plastic mount ") for decorating or fixing works (leisure decoration shops). Adhesive for fabrics (same family) can be useful, apart from fabric, for delicate joinings. Large cartridge of Rubson glue or small pressured ones. (white paste which is washed with water), are rather for large surface works, wood planks, masonry, but sometimes for the medium ones (to stick decoration rods/wooden moulding on a door). It is a very appreciable adhesive for the averages and great surfaces and work not too fine ; tip must be well washed afterwards (there are now equivalent products but Rubson is generally better). Vinyl wood white glue, inside or outside use (also known as marine). The "outside" adhesive is much less sensible to moisture and it is that which sticks the plies of "external" plywood (laminated). The wood glue can also be used for hardening the section of the paperboard and wood, while the "outside" glue will seal off it.
Polyurethane outside wood glue
(pots, plastic bottles); even less sensible to the moisture; it is thick, yellowish, drop everywhere and forms
a foam which expand while overflowing from the joints. Drop but dries quickly. In short, one puts drops and stains almost everywhere and all
that has overflowed should be removed afterwards (with a sharp blade). Stick many other materials and fiil up at the same time (cracks, breeze blocks.) fills spaces.
Can stick materials of masonry between them or with wood, plugding small holes. I also restuck a wood plate on the pillar of a gate.
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Others products.
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The packaging is what make sell better; most of the time, they are very generous.
The weight or the volume content read on the label are supposed to inform us, but it is not enough for appreciating the real quantity.
Here is a picture of a bottle of glue opened right after the purchase : so that it fits to its real content, it
is necessary to squeeze it getting it this hollowed cheeks.
The fact that the bottle is only
filled
two thirds presents a significant drawback : the air anticipates the glue
drying ,
a phenomenon that is growing abnormally with the use. To minimize this
effect, squeeze a flexible glue tube before
recapping it.
Here
is a tube of glue cyanolit whose bottom was crushed with pliers. This
cyano glue is drying very quickly when exposed to the air (due
to
bleu >moist). Carefully sealing
the tube do not remove the inside air, and this air increase its
volume as the tube empties .
Here, I pinched the bottom because I have often seen
bleu >glue harden there ,
as well in the neck, so that the glue climb up to the nozzle before
recapping it (to be placed after in the freezer)<<>. crimson
Take care not to
punch the tube. A round shaped small plier is more suitable.
The Cyano cryalate glue (Cyanolit) allow to fill in a small hole or chip in the earthenware, porcelain and even to make a new part.
Can harden with a significant thickness, like this drop of cyano glue (photo) that shows the hardened drop left in a tube.
Size 1 x1,2 x 1,7 cm.
The two components epoxy glue allow also to bond, repair and reinforce fabric, canvas and leather.
We can reinforce a hole. This glue keep a certain flexibilty and won't break the material.
Making a strap or putting a buckle to a belt is part of that opportunity, but also to put a
patch of fabric in the purpose to sew a button torn off at the waist of a trouser. The metal epoxy adhesive paste can also stiffen;
coat or make broken parts.
