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Cette page, Basic work and tools.

   To saw

Saw at 45° or other angle. To better saw a very thick piece of wood guiding the saw in a miter-box, cut the iron reinforcement: you remove it when needed (photo).
Cheap tools "amateurs" Trade does not give satisfaction, I propose two manufacturing for sawing wood framing, battens etc. The easiest way is using a vertical drill guide Wolfcraft trade). For the second, more thorough, you must make by your own a block of wood at the desired angle (usually 45 °). Both projects demand to form a special spring with a steel wire ; I used a rod of parasol but one can find some other like the ring of a car wheel hub cap or else.
Cutting edge of a board to pass a pipe,
if you do not have a jigsaw, or if it is not easy to use it, make succesive cuts perpendicularly to the edge of the board, fairly close together. Vary the depth of each cut to follow the half round recess of the pipe. We therefore obtain a comb that can be broken easily;  end up with a file to smooth.
Cut in the middle of a board:
It is necessary to use a drill. Draw the circle or shape to be cut; drill successive holes inside the line, close enough to break the piece with a plier. You can also cut wood between the holes with a chisel ç wood. Finish with a file as above.

The Japanese saw.
The best saws, expensive of course. The trapezoidal teeth are razor like, sharped on three sides. The teeth are straight, not crooked teeth left and right like others to provide a space larger than the saw itself. Only the size of each tooth opposite traces its kerf, a tooth on one side, the next the other. The Japanese saw works by pulling (not pushing), with a samurai sword handle. Some models - very fragile - may not exceed 0.6 mm thick. Photo: teeth enlarged, colored contours to better visualize the teeth. Real space between teeth less than a millimeterfor this one !  Serious importer: Etablissements Bordet (mail order).

The handle: The handle give the tool its best usage. Precision, effectiveness without too much trouble. If you like tools with beautiful sleeves of a bygone era, go to flea markets, to museums and other exhibitions. The old tools had good handles, ergonomic before the time to facilitate the task and ease the pain. Look at the pear shape of an old screwdriver, or a shoemaker's awl.

So, when you are painting, brushing or gardenening, think at the handle.  That of a paint roller can provide access just above or just to paint with both hands: no power but makes a great service. A magnet at the end of a handle makes the search of the screw of needles easier. The handle must have the correct length, good size for his hand and not be slipping. A "ball" at the end, a gripping surface - inner tube bike, tennis racket grip - can facilitate the work.

Filing, grinding, scraping

- To sharpen, cut down: Glass, porcelain notched, forests blunted, knives and scissors, tiles of earthenware, cutting angles to break (to round) etc.
One needs at least  two kinds of sharpening stones to meet the needs, both a rough and a fine. "The rough" can be a stone said as "scythe" or sickle, rather long and ovoid (two frayed ends). It is rather a fine stone but which can, in addition to sharpening, to be useful to soften glass or porcelain (notched crockery that one wishes to keep), sharp angles of cut out glass, etc  For the tilings, bricks, one needs a rougher stone, kind of grinds with corundum.

Here is an enlarged fragment of grindstone for sharpening chain saw. This grinder red, thin to its competitors, however, is a bit expensive. It can be used with a drill in finding the right axis. Its thinness and quality of the abrasive are two advantages. Laid flat, it will serve to sharpen your tools.

- To scrap:  with a piece of saw blade (cutted with a grinding machine), a "putty-knife"  (spatula) of glazier or painter, oyster knife, with a back fabrics or added wood). A chop/ cook knife. A steel  blade of certain shoe-horn (tip or spring (one needs a cutting disc for drilling machine); With a thin steel blade one can scrape, take off an adhesive while slipping it behind the hook, remove a stone under the door (photo). A fine steel blade makes it possible to scrape, take off an adhesive by slipping it below, removing a stone under door etc (see Brico photographs). For a better use, these blades steel can also be sharpened on the stone. A CDROM can be useful to scrape a window glass, tiles (wall, ground) a working board. And its pouch, to protect a surface.

- Scaler; for scaling old paintings, I used the following system : nail or screw 4 or 6 capsules of fruit juice, beer.., upside down (teeth up) on a block of wood, and fill up to two thirds the capsules with a paste "réparetout" (see also repair, replacing a broken element) of plaster, washer if you have some, of candle (to be tested) and so on, in order to economically reinforce the hollow of the capsule which would not otherwise stand the strain. that scrapes well ! you can from time to time sharpen them with a file; if these capsules were of  steel, it would be fantastic.

sanding, polishing

- Sandpapering; orbital grinders with disc do very good work, less devastator that with the simple circulars. One can obtain a very fine finishing. They have clutching plates (with the right velcro discs) but one day, discs do not clutch any more, It is necessary to change the plate, but while waiting, stick the discs with adhesive neoprene on the plate !  tear off and restick.

Miniature grinder for fine sandpapering-polishing (small surfaces, jewels). Use an electric tooth brush ; fix a tap rubber round joint directly on the steel axis. Make a hole in the disc, smaller than the axis, for example burning it with a needle to embroider heated on the gas or on the electric plate; one can bore completely and stick a second disc above the first one (cyanolit glue); then stick your sandpaper (fine or very fine (150 to 600) onto the disc (neopren glue) ; you can put a paste on it to be sandpapered if necessary or to tuse the toothpaste.

Soldering technics with tin  solder electric wires on electronic circuits - solder electric wires on connexions - solder tin on tin   see fixing electricity


Some tools for a variety of small crafts, some unusual. I do not mean serial keys of different types, or many others. This is encouraging for DIY we all are ! I strongly advise against enticing kits including all, or pretending to. They are most often unnecessary tools and cheap. Buy gradually according to your needs, and look at carefully l! The price can also learn.
- Wrenchs to nuts: must be in vanadium, that is to say very flat, with reinforcing ribs.
- Pliers: Their beaks must touch perfectly each other (to be seen against the light); it opens without hard but with no gap. Are they well in hand to force ?
Adjustable pliers, can be maintained tightened by a rubber band (cut bike room).
Very useful, but can damage ; in which case, put a thick cloth round the object, especially for the chrome !
Half bent long nose with cutting edge plier; There, nose is 5 cm long from the center of the axis. Nose clamps flat and not round. Universal clamp is more common for small crafts, but a strong beak finishing fine at the end is better from my point of view. modelling cutting edge pliers (nose 3.5 cm from the center of the axis). Handful to repair a ring of jewel, bending a thin rod (safety pin etc).. See repair an umbrella)

half round fine file 13 cm (without the handle). The half round is my best choice, thinking to use it also on the back! Small hand drill. Inexpensive, it replaces a big powered battery one to drill holes of small diameter.

Mini saw, but great service for DIY. Blades sold in bunch we can change willingly. Possibility of round blades (right) for tile. May also cut a hole in the wood, cut etc..

Wood chisel small model. important tool, but rarely used in DIY : Useful to alter or digging a groove, cleaning a dirty corner. (Wood, plastic), remove thick glue, a wood outgrowth etc.

Light hammer
(mass of 14 cm x 7cm). Weird, not heavy at all, but ideal for a precision job (we are not nailing a roof frame, so ..)

Rather unusual, tools, but very useful.
Brussels clamp (very thin end). Nothing to do with tweetzer
Hemostat pliers (see electronics or fishing stores, I saw one cubit). Right hand, dentist spin to drill tubes of glue, unclog very fine holes or make small holes (just ask, coarse and fine, if you dare).

Dismantle, handcraft, replace

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