the case of this door chime is  perfectly adjusted and one can sees only a very fine line between the two hulls (shown here already separated). Nothing, no hidden screw, it is despairing. While passing a fine blade, one feels the parts that can be opened or pushed a krank.

Make slip the blades little by little while, to find the spots where nothing move : there will be the hooks. Here is an exemple (two groups of three, it is a serious one). Pushed directly right inside the fine groove, the blade does not enter because there is plastic covering from one side to the other: it is necessary to pry a bit and move it towards up or down, then push to drive further this aside already a bit of both sides. One make then leverage to pull the top and push the other. What holds to much should let go or break (this is the case here, on the other side, three hooks are broken). No matter, it will hold with the others. If not, we glue the two sides.

Using a blade, fingers and a hook, one can simultaneously push in the lower part while drawing the upper part towards outside.  what resists must unclip or break. It was happened here, three hooks beoken on the other side. Not serious, the rest will hold ; if not, glue the two parts.  The solution is always the same one, to insert a blade of knife downwards and upwards to try to find which part is the lid and where are the crooks.

More difficult. Dismantling of a handheld unit by breaking two piece of plastic. Complete success, without visible damage.

In this case, it was first necessary to remove the screw back blocking the first element snapped, encircling himself the two half-shells. This element is clipped the top of the blue handle. This was epic as the plastic thick and short edges never flinched under the strain and I was afraid to break everything (*) required a major effort for the price ^ two notches (slots black visible here). (*) Which is ridiculous since in any case, we'll throw it!

We see the two hooks, but it was even more vicious because by pushing at an angle, nothing moved due to the penetration of a blade in the slot the other shell (which is no longer a simple recovery but a casing and I had to go throughs, forcing with the screwdriver.

Detail of the casing (interlocking); we can see the plastic hook that fits into a notch in front of it. There is also an edge (red arrow), which goes to fit in a groove of the other shell (simulated in green).

handcraft, manufacture, replace
Usages of a credit  card and plastic paste in grains see see also make out oneself

Part shaped on another, that has been used to make a mould of plaster, inside whose I have poured plumb. The soft paste (but very hot) got outside the wat, allows any kind of shape , a screw or bolt if you shape it on a true one.

Credit card his bicycle km counter, slips into a sort of dovetail, had a broken part (top, in red)q ; I had to bore and adjust a bit with a chisel, then bond with a cyano glue three layers or credit card cut out to fit the missing part.

Paste plastic grains. Most of examples are conventional chain link, handles .. free your imagination. Practical for a screw (wood or iron) that must remove and replace sometimes not the screwdriver. - Base to keep upright an object, stone collection, doll, utensil..

A tool that open my watch with a back screwed. Nails, although previously arranged and hammered into the wood, were then covered with the plastic paste.

Two black plastic parts are to be replaced. Primarily,  a bar is made with a paste epoxy mix. The paste comes in the form of a black roll on the outside, with a gray heart. "Loctite", accessories for cars).

While hardening, the mix becomes firm, we cut it with a cutter, removing some chips. We can then give it its shape fairly easily, even complex. Once the product is hard, you end up with a file, saw, drill, sanding ..

Pot handle burned reconstituted with an epoxy black paste for car repair.

Mold and moldings.
A mold of plaster can receive all products you can pour in it, very hot or cold, plumb, brass or iron if you can melt it. Also possibly  epoxy mix, silicon, even glue !    the mold is formed of two parts as we have to remove the model without breaking the mold, it's obvious but not always possible (one make then several molds). The upper part (cover) should have a nice hole at the higher inside point for the product to be poured ; others holes will be done to avoid defects due to the compression of air that couldn't escape.

Shaping the two parts : fill a cardboard box with plaster; push down the model half inside the plaster and ler dry hard. Take out the model and replace it. Then cut out a sheet of kitchen greasy paper and put it on the mold surface or grease it. Fill in up rather thick shaping the edge at square.

Prosthesis (pin). If a strong effort is applied to a small area, the glue, even strong, doesn't hold the strain : crimsonone way, the pin   : for that it is necessary to have a choice of iron or steel axes (which you recovered while dismounting broken objects. and it requires a choice of axes of iron or steel (you have recovered by removing the broken objects). Drill a hole with a suitable depth according to the repair (one to several cm) on each side of the broken parts, the problem being precision of drilling so that the parts fit themselves as well as possible.
Put adhesive (epoxy, cyano...) on the axis and in holes and assemble. If you miss the alignment, bore a larger hole on a side to give room to shift a bit and fill with adhesive. Generally, one will take Araldite or equivalent for this kind of work. Avoid very fast glues for this kind of work".

Folding bench : the tip of this moulded metal part broke : the axis was coated with paste to stick. Note : axe = axle

The moulded metal part holding the caster (roulette) of the garage door broke. The whole was positioned back and wrapped with a good quantity of metallic two components paste. Note : axe = axle ; matière = material, ie paste.

Tip of garden chair leg replaced. See Restauration

1  handle of saw broken and wrapped  with plastic paste in grains See "tools for the reading  2

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