The most known node is that we are making to tie up a package or to attach our shoe laces. Alternatives nodes were conceived according to professional needs, by the carters, the fishermen, the farmers, the sailors. The good nodes doesn not slip; some can be easily untighten, even under tension, while being tightened when one draws them.

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We are speaking about ropes and not strings of kitchen. The detail is significant: the fine strings tend to form blocked nodes, they are difficult to untie, where a large cord will slip; it is the case of the reef knot, however rather used. Certain nodes are a bit complicated, like the famous "chair node", favourite of the the sailors who had to climb up to the top of the  mast, with a very relative comfort. Harnesses replace them advantageously, but the node of chair is free.

Here is a small selection of nodes, but before presenting them, always think of crimsonletting largely exceed the free end (minimum 5 to 10 cm for a large cord). If the node slips a little while being tightened, the bit will not be able "to escape". In the event of significant slip, you  can make one simple node at the end of each free tip: the sliping will quick be stopped because the node of the tip never can pass through the main node (personal option). Dissolve the ends of plastic cord (propylene) with a lighter or stick them, or tie up them so that the constituent stands are not demolished (see bindings after the nodes). To demolish the node of a rather rigid cord, push on the free bit by twisting it (the best direction of torsion is often that which demolishes the strand).
Here after, I name "simple node, of lace", the first node which one makes with the laces of shoe. It is the base for all things. Excuses : knots names are more or less the french translation.
sheet node of the sailors. Connects two ropes, does not block itself and does not slip; it cannot be undone under tension.     Half key node : it is in fact a simple node (of lace) made after having circled a stake, pillar etc. The cord is tighten (cord of mooring, clothes line), and its free end is raised up after having passed through the loop. Like that, it just does not hold very well and it is necessary to do two or three nodes (half key)more one after the other. See below "half key braided".      Reef knot: node rather usually used, which is tightening itself in theory when one draws on each side from the cord. Can however slips according to the rope used (diameter, roughness) or undo itself when is no longer under tension. It is in general very satisfactory for the strings. One must prefer to it the sheet node,  described above.   Node of full fist: it is a simple node (of lace), but made by taking together in the hands the cord and a length folded backward, so that a loop is carried out. Before making the node, if required threading in the loop the ring of pulley or the hook.
Node half key braided is the same half key node but one does not make entirely pass the free bit which forms a double. In fact, to refer to the lace, it is the loop which one makes on his shoe: it is enough to draw above for all to demolish. Note the three turns around the pillar which relieve the tension on the node. It is a principle to retain. Node of fisherman: very practical and without fault to connect two cords; each free bit of fact a simple node (of lace) on the other; while drawing, the two nodes tighten and block one against the other.
Simple node of chair: can appear a little superfluous but it is interesting if you want to make a loop, small or large, which its does not tighten. Splices (for memory): allows to connect without node by drawing aside the bits of part of a cord in order to introduce the bits of its folded up end there (to make a loop). It is necessary to respect the regularity of the twist. Enough difficult.

Bindings.
The turns are spaced here for a better understanding, but it is necessary to make them jointed. One uses the bindings to tighten a split handle, to maintain or fix two elements one against the other (joining.), with the garden for the bouturage, fishing for the hook or the fixing of the rings on the cane. The principle is always about the same one: one tightens two elements while rolling up quite tight around them, a string, cord, nylon thread of fishing or elastic band. The difference is due to the way in which one fixes the two ends of the bond. Generally, one starts to roll up by leaving one of the ends inside; arrived at the end, one also makes pass the final end inside the whorls in order to wedge it, like the first. Binding 1, one makes whorls which enclose one of the ends placed along the part to tighten. With the end, to make pass in the whorls or part of the whorls, the end which one holds, one uses a needle. Binding 2, it is my method: I make make an outward journey return to the bond whose end A remains outside; the other hangs on the same level; I strongly support on the two bonds with my inch left side end and I make the first turn (I am left-handed); I gradually move the inch towards the line. Arrived close to the loop, I thread the end which I hold inside and I strongly draw on bit A, which makes return the other end inside the whorls. Binding 3, one starts similar but with only one bit inside, as into 1, but which will leave largely on the right. With the end, one makes a node with this end and that which one holds in the hand. Binding 4, one can not roll up, but make nodes with each turn or half-turn with two of the same bits length which remain both outside. One braids to some extent the bond which one can more strongly tighten - it is the interest - with each whole or half-turn; the difficulty in maintaining tight each whorl or half whorl is a little less because of the node. This bond, thicker, is not indexed, nor the binding 5, which is better with a strong elastic band, my preferred for joining (cutting of thin straps of tire tube of bicycle or motor bike. The elastic bonds are the best, it is enough to make much turns. A wet leather lace will very strongly retract while drying. With you to test and choose according to case's.

Sharpening, trimming, scraping Blunt forests (wicks), knives, scissors (two-blade), wood chisels, planer blades...
Remove what "aggresses".Round a sharp angle, reduce a chipped part, burr on all materials: metal, glass, porcelain, earthenware tiles, plastic.esse".Arrondir un angle vif, réduire une partie ébréchée, bavures sur tous matériaux: métal, verre, porcelaine, carreaux de faïence, plastique. At least two types of sharpening stones are required to meet the requirements, one medium-grained and one fine.
"The average" can be a regular type stone, quite long and ovoid (two tapered ends, shuttle-shaped). It is a stone that is already thin, but which can, in addition to sharpening it, be used to soften glass or porcelain (chipped dishes that you want to keep), sharp angles of cut glass, etc. The "thin" model is represented by this plate. It will be used for finishing after the transition to the average or for delicate objects that the average abrasive could damage.

For tiles, bricks, a larger stone is needed, such as a grinding wheel to roughen with corundum. Opposite is a magnified fragment of a grinding wheel for chain saw sharpening. This thin, red, thin wheel is however a little expensive. It can be used with a drill by finding the right axis or by tinkering with one. Its thinness and the quality of the abrasive are two advantages. Placed flat, it will serve to sharpen your tools.

Scrape.  With a "knife" of painter and glazier (spatula, different widths), oyster knife, knife or small chopper (the thick and high blade can be held at two hands). Or with a piece of wood saw blade cut with a grinder. A recovered steel blade. A thin steel blade also allows to remove an adhesive by sliding it underneath or to remove a stone under the door etc. For best use, all blades can be sharpened with stone during use.
a CDROM scratches very well the stuck dirt and does not scratch; its grip is good and you can use all its circumference. For scraping tiles, cement flooring, sink tops, dishes and utensils, glass. Avoid soft or fragile surfaces (stove teflon, wooden furniture, some plastics.

Scaling. To peel old paints that come off in thick plates, I used the following system; nail or screw upside down (teeth in (air) 4 or 6 capsules of fruit juice, beer.. on a wooden block; fill two thirds of a firm product such as granulated "modelling paste. (see repair repair, plaster etc. This is to reinforce at little cost the hollow of the capsule which does not resist well to effort. it itches well! you can sharpen them from time to time. time with a file; if these capsules were made of steel, it would be fantastic.

Sand - Polish.
The orbital disc sanding machines do a very good job, less devastating than with circulars simple. A very fine finish can be obtained. They have scratch plates (with the right discs)   but one day, the discs no longer grip; it is then necessary to change the tray. For my part, I stick the discs with neoprene glue on the tray!  and then I tear off the disc I glued and reattach a new one.

Miniature sander/polisher. for fine sanding-polishing (small surfaces, jewellery). Use an electric toothbrush and attach a rubber valve washer directly on the steel axle. Make a hole in the washer, smaller than the axis, for example by burning with a gas-heated embroidery needle or on the electric plate); you can drill completely and glue a second washer on the first one (cyanolite glue); then glue your fine or very fine sanding paper (150 to 600 bodywork type) on the face of the washer (neoprene glue), and put on a sanding paste or use toothpaste.