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This page   New Caledonia, Finding out   mainland, islands     

French


Life and reality of the country. . Personnal experience (lived there). Understanding the tribal life and the colonists
Hotels, restaurants, transports are not.


(see tribes).

Photo Wikipedia. You will find another with the sea area from an official book. New Caledonia sea possession, said "sea of coral". corals of the reef  

 

The cagou, emblem of New Caledonia

postcard

Here is our cagou, a bit less arrogant, but more natural.
The cagou is a curious bird which does not fly and which barks as a little dog. Endangered specie, it was victim of rats and one says dogs. It is protected and one can see it at the botanical and zoological park of Noumea.


the flame trees in flowers herald the coming of the summer (Décember)


situation map in the Pacific


Engraved bamboos (geography Le Borgne)
Engraving on bamboos; there are some of them at the museum of Nouméa: as the Egyptian drawings, they describe the life of the ancestors, travels, fauna and flora.
(one can find reproductions in some curios)



The column-like pines were planted everywhere, but several species are single (endemic), in particular in the "île des Pins" (island of the Pines).


"THE PEBBLE" is the principal island of New Caledonia, called main land it consists of a rectilinear chain of mountains tilted of approximately 45° on the parallels.
Two summits culminate in North and the south, the Panié mount (1629 m) and the mount Humboldt (1618 m); this last is on the level of the international airport of Tontouta.

The tropic of Capricorn passes to the south of the territory (23° 27 '). The Australian coast 1500 km far away.


Image NC tourism. 400 km length on 50 broad are allowed approximate dimensions for the large ground, still called "the pebble". The total surface of archipelago is approximately 18600 km2.


English past : robe mission (mission dress) and Cricket, practiced by women !
THREE PROVINCES

This "Pays d'Outre-mer" (overseas country), french collectivity, is divided into three "Provinces", including one for the easthern islands (Ouvéa, Tiga, Lifou and Maré). A High commissioner represents the French government. Noumea is the seat of institution of the Southern Province itself.

From the plane, "the pebble" shows its superb lagoon, but also its immense yellow-reddish scars due to the exploitation in open sky of the nickel discovered by Garnier. The lagoon is fantastic but the mountains, dry and bushy on the western side, refrain your enthusiasm because you do not see the expected " tropical paradise ". fortunately, it will be better once on the ground because all is to be discovered.

Noumea is the only big city. With its sprawling districts, it numbers 110.000 inhabitants out of the 215.000 of the territory.

- When going away in the "Grande Terre" (Large Land), from Noumea, one says that one goes "en brousse" (in bush)

Nouméa: near the "rocher à la voile" (rock at the sail).

Kanak songs.They are intimately linked to nature, dreams and the spirits of ancestors. According to tradition, the songs "aé-aé" have their origin in water from a stream flowing over a rock. By breaking the stone, these songs are released. They recount the history of the villages, the relationship between tribes and colonial repression. Flutes and reed bamboo leaf packs, accompany dances pilou pilou. According to the book "voix des rivages et des montagnes" by Françoise Degeorges.("Voices of the shores and mountains").

The country offers many "aquatic" opportunities, sailing around, fishing, diving, windsurfing, fly or kite or surf. The traditional surf is practiced only in a few spots.  If you do not have a boat, try the turtle bay in Bourail. By boat, you can reach Gouaro (near Bourail) or in the pass of the Dumbea, some 25 km facing Noumea.

LARGE LAND "the pebble"
fllèche faîtière de CanalaTop of hut of Canala

EASTERN COAST

Valley


rainy and very " tropical " with its beaches of white sand, coconuts and banana trees; it is primarily a kanak land. The rivers are short, straight and can become violent, of which Tchamba and its broad mouth. The last "bac" (small formerly hand powered ferry!) which currently remains makes it possible to cross the magnificent Ouaïème
.

The tribes are numerous there, cultivating yams, tarots and manioc for their roots, as well as the coffee.
This one was formerly a source of income (the production is 50 tonnes/an, that is to say 1/5me consumption; the remainder is imported mainly of New Guinea. The coprah,which was exported formerly, came especially from the islands.

I was told that the best coffee, the "Leroy", is being planted again after ages of abandon, but only for a an "elite".

WESTERN COAST : Said "under the wind ", so dry. Overburn by the summer sun, scenery of the West coast with its softer slopes forming large plains : grass savannas, bushes and shrubs,  Among them counts the well know niaouli tree with the sheets  like eucalyptus, tortuous like an olive-tree and white as a birch which would peels. It burns but pushes back thanks to the protection of its multiple layers of white "skin" that avoid it to be killed. The sheets produce the gasoline of niaouli (goménolée oil)

The extensive breeding is practised there: it is the real of the " stockmen" (inspired by Australia), especially in the area of Bourail and La Foa (exhibitions of rodeos).image complète au clic
Typical summer landscape of the large farms of the West coast. Undulating ground where the niaoulis reign as masters. One formerly extracted the "goménol spirit and oil".

Today perfumes and liquors of niaouli are provided, if one likes.


Fancy a nice ride "in the bush" and in the past (but still reel), NCtour1, it worth your time !

THE SOUTH
Wild spaces in the south of Nouméa, in direction to Prony and to the Yaté dam. There is earth iron chromium is everywhere. Its chemical exploitation is in hand because it also contains nickel. One can find unusual plants there, like the carnivarous nepenthe, white orchids, and even prehistoric prized wood.

THE NORTH
It offers wild and imposing landscapes, deserted tracks and bare mountains. The single river of Calédonie is there, the Diahot. But it is a little far and it takes time. The mountain falls steep in the sea.

North east Caledonia : in the background, the Panier mount (1629 m).

Beautiful picture from "Terre Sauvages", special ecological edition about overseas French countries.



Kanak songs. They are intimately linked to nature, dreams and the spirits of ancestors. According to tradition, the songs "aé-aé" have their origin in water from a stream flowing over a rock. By breaking the stone, these songs are released. They recount the history of the villages, the relationship between tribes and colonial repression. Flutes and reed bamboo leaf packs, accompany dances pilou pilou. According to the book "voix des rivages et des montagnes" par Françoise Degeorges.("Voices of the shores and mountains" by Francoise Degeorges).

The country offers many "aquatic" opportunities, sailing around, fishing, diving, windsurfing, fly or kite or surf. The traditional surf is practiced only in a few spots.  If you do not have a boat, try the turtle bay in Bourail. By boat, you can reach Gouaro (near Bourail) or in the pass of the Dumbea, some 25 km facing Noumea.

The LAGOON. On the West coast, it is close to Nouméa, where one can admire the second most beautiful lagoon of the world, wich circle 1600 km length..for a surface of 22,000 square km.  The reef rank second after the Great Australian Barrier.

Its marvellous colors emerald, or are due to sand at a shallow water deep, lighted by the tropical sun.


Islet of "Phare Amédée" (picture "calendar pétroglyphes")

Bird view with the reef and its passe (original color exces faded).

13% of the population owns a motorboat.


Up to 30 km from the West coast, 60 km to the South (île des Pins) and much more to the North, beyond the archipelago of Belep islands, the reef circle the lagoon. It testify the ancient size of the main land. To the East, facing the trade wind, it is nearby the coast. The lagoon of New Caledonia totalize 1600 Km length (circle) and a 22000 km2 square area (see satellite photo, at the top).


ISLANDS
Islands are exclusively dedicated to the tribes.

They have a special place in the territory and their tribes watch closely to their land ancestral rights. So much that a public school can be subjected to the tribal law.

The ground is inalienable and can be sold only to the residents.

Three of the four large islands stems from coral ; they are called "îles Loyauté" (Loyalty islands) and are located east of the mainland. Their base consists of raised coral, a limestone solid mass often very hard, strewn with cavities and caves.

Dead coral ; To dig in a dead coral atoll is not easy matter to achieve because the coral is very compact once collapsed down and packed. Small borings are often made with the crowbar. The ground thusd is not homogeneous; it is not rare to meet there excavations and even true caves. All the Society islands are like that.

 Photograph from 1968.

This setting is not arranged,  and the natural grace of this young person, looking after her child playing in the water, is quite authentic.
A true moment of peaceful happines.


The Two more famous islands are l'île des Pins (the island of the Pines) for its dramatic beauty and its specific column-like pines (endemic specie), and Ouvéa which is an atoll having rocked; its character is undeniable. It was also the theatre of the sad episode "of the cave massacre " see tribes



Pine Island (Île des Pins)


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